Don’t Call ‘Em Onions

Calçots are harvested in the Catalan region of Spain in late winter through early spring. An esteemed member of the allium family, these onions are often described somewhere between scallions and green onions. Not unlike the farming technique used for white asparagus, the soil around the neck of the plant is pushed up or “hilled” in order to cover them, retarding their (chlorophyll) greening. This farming method is called calçar (in Catalan), and keeps the onion white and sweet. These milder bulbs are traditionally grilled over grapevines or charcoal until the exterior is charred black, and then rolled in newspaper to steam, retaining their warmth, sweetness, and soft texture. While these onions are special and seasonal, it’s really the accompanying sauce that push calçots into otherworldliness. Almonds, tomatoes, garlic, hazelnuts, olive oil (usually arbequina), hot and sweet red peppers and parsley are blended together and slathered on the onions (for the more traditional Romesco sauce, a bitter pepper is used). The calçots from Valls, Spain are a registered EU Protected Geographical Indication.

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The cork is pulled on a bottle of icy Albariño, while a wedge of aged Catalonian sheep’s milk cheese comes up to temperature. Sunday’s newspaper is unfurled onto a picnic table, revealing dozens of the charred onions. A large bowl of the sauce (with extra garlic) is set in the middle and the…